What’s the difference between your bespoke and made-to-measure?
In a nutshell, a bespoke suit has a hand cut pattern, unique to each client. There will be an in-between fitting to allow the tailor to fit the suit on the client before it is finished. A lot of handwork goes into a bespoke suit, from the initial cutting to the hand stitched buttonholes. Each suit will have horsehair canvassing through the chest to allow the suit to breath and mould to the client’s body shape.
A made-to-measure suit is adapted from a pre-existing block and machine cut and machine finished. It will have less handwork and there is rarely an in-between fitting. Any alterations are done at the end.
What is the benefit of canvassing?
Canvassing in a bespoke suit has a number of benefits. Due to the fact that the canvas is quite sturdy, it gives structure to the jacket, creating a more three-dimensional shape and flattering the wearer. When you put the jacket on it moulds to your body, allowing the jacket to sit properly across your chest and keep the drape and the balance of the jacket level, even when it isn’t fastened.
Aside from the aesthetic, the canvas is hand-stitched in place, allowing the whole jacket to breathe properly. Fused chest pieces use glue to hold the canvas in place, which prevents moisture escaping the jacket. If the chest piece is fused, it also creates bobbling on the jacket after a while as the fabrics start to separate. Once this happens the jacket is ruined.
Should I get two pairs of trousers with my suit?
It really depends on what the suit is for. If it is a work suit that will be worn frequently we would highly recommend it. Similarly if the suit is cut from a lightweight cloth, then again we would advise it. If you rotate the trousers it should double the lifespan of the suit. However, if it is only worn on special occasions it may not be necessary.
What happens if my weight changes?
All our suits are made with inlay of two inches that can be let out if you gain weight. They can also be taken in up to two inches without distorting the shape of the garment if you lose weight.
How long does the whole process take?
Generally we allow 6-8 weeks for both ranges, including fittings. However we do offer an express service for each range with a 2-week turnaround. This carries a surcharge of £200.
Do you have a house style?
We always recommend a relatively slim cut with a high armhole. However we believe that your suit should be unique to you and your style, so while we’ll offer advice and recommendations we won’t force our style on you.
How do I care for my suits?
The key point in extending your suits lifespan is hanging it up properly at the end of the day. Make sure you have a wide hanger for the jacket, preferably a wooden one to allow it to absorb any excess moisture. A soft clothes brush will also help to get the dust and dirt off the fabric without having to dry-clean it excessively.
How often should I dry-clean them?
There is much debate about how often one should dry-clean one’s suit. If you wear your suit a couple of times a week, then every 6 months is more than enough. Find a professional dry-cleaner, ideally one who will also steam and press your suit as well. If you have a separate winter and summer wardrobe, then it’s a good idea to dry-clean your winter suits at the end of the season and put them away clean, ready for next year.
How do I pack my suit when travelling?
If you have to travel without a suit carrier, which isn’t always practical, turn the suit jacket inside out to protect the fabric and fold it in half vertically so one shoulder is tucked neatly into the other. If you can, lay it flat like this. If you can’t, roll it up once it’s folded in half; this should prevent too much creasing. Then simply hang it up in the shower room to steam out any remaining creases on arrival.
Will the same cloth be available in a few years?
A lot of the cloths will still be in stock in a few years. However, it is important to note that even if the fabric is still in stock, the colour match may not be perfect as the fabric mills make the cloth in small batches so there are always some discrepancies.
How long should my suit last?
There are a lot of variables when it comes to longevity: how often you were it, how often you dry-clean it, the weight of the fabric and if you have two pairs of trousers to name a few.
However, if you look after it and wear it once a week, rotate the trousers and don’t dry-clean it too often it should last you at least 5 years.
Do you make eveningwear?
Both our ranges offer black tie, white tie and morning suits.
Do you make overcoats?
Both our ranges offer overcoats in wool, cashmere and alpaca.
Do you cater for wedding parties?
We can do suits for just the groom or the whole party if required. We can also create bespoke linings, ties and pocket squares for wedding suits, although this would require a 12 week turnaround time.
Who supplies your fabrics?
We use predominantly English cloth, made in Huddersfield. Dormeuil, Scabal, Dugdales and Huddersfield Fine Worsted are our top fabric suppliers, and we have access to hundreds of other cloths if you require something specific.
Where are your suits made?
Our Bespoke range is hand cut in London and our M2M range is made in Europe.
Do you do Womenswear?
We do bespoke womenswear, which is all completely handmade in London and requires a couple for fittings than the menswear. See our Womenswear section for a full breakdown and some examples.